For his fall collection shown during Paris Fashion Week, ApparelMagic client Thom Browne focused on what he knows and does best—the suit.
In a presentation echoing one he put on at menswear mecca Pitti Uomo a decade ago, he centered his runway on a long, narrow office, filled with midcentury desks and typewriters, and covered in his trademark blinds.
Around the office space, models strode in variations on the classic pantsuit. In grey wool and khaki mackintoshes, they looked the picture of 1950s Mad Men: androgynous, chic, and a tad tightly wound. Soon, things—as they usually do at a Browne show—got a little stranger. Suits came down the runway looking like cable-knit cardigans, Gobs of fur started covering hems and sleeves, and later, the suits themselves were simplified to trompe l’oeil facsimiles, dresses with tie bars and buttons attached directly to their bodices.
Using feminist icon Una Troubridge as a motif, he built on his staple look with whimsical aplomb. A skirt with her image sewn right in, or pants made of woven ribbon here, an inside-out blazer there. Some suits were decked out in duck embroidery, and others were fully sequined in gold. No matter how it was done though, Browne made a strong statement for the power of the pantsuit.