Understanding Apparel Manufacturing:
The ApparelMagic Guide

Apparel manufacturers can make or break a clothing business; because of that, it is important to understand the basics of apparel manufacturing in order to successfully break into this booming niche. When you’re first starting out, it is important to be smart about the ways you’re investing in your business because those are the investments that are going to make your future.

At the most basic level, apparel manufacturers produce clothing. This typically involves converting fabrics into clothing using the specifications that are set forth by the designers or the companies that are contracting their services. With that said, some clothing manufacturers offer a broader selection of services.

There are a lot of benefits that come with working with a manufacturer. When you deal with a manufacturer, your own resources can be more dedicated to marketing, scaling your business, and managing your brand image. You have more creative freedom when you choose to work with a manufacturer as well because you’re not limited to your own capabilities, equipment, or capacity.

Even though there are a lot of benefits, there are risks associated with the process as well. You do have to purchase larger quantities, there are larger investments to make up front, and there are risks when it comes to quality and timing.

In this guide, we’re going to explore the basics of clothing manufacturing and provide you with the foundation you need to make the right choices for your business, to help mitigate risk, and to give you a great jumping-off point in your search for the apparel manufacturer that will help you meet your goals.

Terms To Know

Here are some key terms you may come across throughout this guide and throughout your search for the right manufacturer.

Colorways: Colorways are an arrangement of colors in which a particular style or item is available. For example, when you see a shirt that is available in blue, purple, or red, these are its colorways. Having multiple colorways is a great way to reach a broader audience with a particular item and you will need to know how many colorways in a particular item you will be ordering.

Flat Sketches: Sometimes these are just referred to as sketches. This refers to two-dimensional drawings of a garment as if it were laying on a flat surface. These are usually necessary when you first contact a manufacturer and should include things like seams and stitching details.

Grading: Grading is the process of proportionately scaling the dimensions of the parts of a product (like sleeves, collar, etc.) according to the size ranges that you’re going to have available. Typically, manufacturers are able to use software to create various sizes from a master pattern. Sometimes, this is also called pattern grading.

Line Sheet: Line Sheets are created for the buyers of your products, typically in regards to wholesale. This is a single sheet that includes design images, styles, available sizes, colors, and fabrics used in the garments. This is a very important basic documentation of what you are selling and serves as a reference for buyers.

Marker: Markers are full-size diagrams, typically printed on paper. Markers are laid out on top of the fabric in the cutting process to make the best use of the fabric available based on the pieces that need to be made. The use of markers can help make the best use of your resources and the fabric that the manufacturer is using.

MOQs: MOQ is an acronym that stands for Minimum Order Quantity, sometimes this is just called the minimum. This is the minimum quantity that a manufacturer, or vendor, will need for you to purchase in order to use their services. Some manufacturers will require you to buy larger quantities. Determining the MOQ for a particular manufacturer is a key part of the selection process.

Packing List: A packing list is a document that is created by whoever ships your product to the final retailer. Packing lists include details about quantities, sizes, colorways, and additional specifications about everything contained in the order.

Pattern: Patterns can be digital or on paper. They are models for each individual piece of a completed garment that will be used as a guide to creating a product. Some manufacturers will be able to create this for you while some will expect you to provide it for them; this depends on the type of manufacturer that you choose.

Prototype: Prototypes are full-sized and functional models of the product or clothing item that you want to be produced. You will often be expected to send a prototype to a manufacturer. It is also a good idea to include them when they are not required if you have them available.

Purchase Order: Purchase Orders are usually referred to as just POs. These are documents that you will send as requests to your manufacturer for their services. POs are placed after all the negotiation is complete and they are legally binding contracts that specify exactly what you are ordering, how much you will pay, and how many of each item you are buying.

Sample: Samples are exactly what they sound like; samples of the products you specified that will be sent to you by the manufacturer. There are several different types of sample including toiles, which are the very first iteration of your product from the manufacturer; fitting samples, which will demonstrate the different sizes you have specified and; sales samples, which are the final examples of the product that will be sent to your buyers.

Size Run: A size run is a limited set of pre-production garments that will be used to verify the accuracy of each clothing size before the actual production run to ensure that everything is correct. Size runs are important because when you include sizes on labels, there are some legal standards that sizes have to meet that are set forth by the ASTM.

Sourcing: Sourcing can refer to you sourcing products from your manufacturer; however, it also refers to how the manufacturer sources their materials (textiles, buttons, zippers, etc.) for the production that they do.

Stylesheet: Stylesheets are similar to line sheets but these are documents that you will send to your manufacturer. They include all of the specifications for each garment you want them to produce for you, including information on designs, fabrics, sizes, colorways, and more. Stylesheets should be extremely detailed and include sample sketches and all of the information about each item.

Techpack: Techpacks are more formally known as technical packs or sometimes technical specification packaging. This refers to a document that includes all of the technical specifications about your products and you will need to have them prepared to send to your manufacturers, even if you’re just considering them. Tech packs include information about fabrics, colorways, labels, trims, sizes, standards, and more. The purpose of a tech pack is to communicate every possible detail on how you would like your items manufactured.