Thom Browne returning to the CFDA Awards

The Council of Fashion Designers of America announced this year’s nominees for the CFDA Awards at an event Wednesday night at the New Museum in New York.

Included on the short list in the nominations presented by the CFDA’s Diane von Furstenberg and Nadja Swarovski was ApparelMagic client and veteran CFDA award-winner Thom Browne and his iconic shrunken grey flannel suits.

Browne has received this distinction twice in the past, having been named Menswear Designer of the Year by the CFDA in 2006 and 2013.

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The 2016 CFDA Awards will take place in New York on June 6. See the full list of CFDA nominees for 2016 here.

For over 30 years, ApparelMagic, the leading apparel management software, has been at the forefront of technology and the cutting edge of fashion in the industry, helping businesses manage styles, customers, sales, inventory and accounting.

The brightest stars at New York Fashion Week are ApparelMagic clients

Jill Stuart

– Whereas last season Jill Stuart went to Studio 54 via a retro helping of minimalism, this time around she went full-on glam maximalist.While definitely a departure for a label with a more classically feminine reputation, the show hit all the trends squarely on the head.

Shiny and sparkly, velvet and fishnets, ruffles and rhinestones: this collection has everything a 24/7 party girl could need. The sheer variety of garments to choose from was the first sign Stuart was onto something new. Pants alone varied from fitted and timeless all the way to midnight blue velvet gauchos with hems that looked as wide as circle skirts.

The cocktailwear, a Stuart signature, had the same wide range, with highlights including a leather button-front pencil skirt paired with a puff sleeve blouse in inky taffeta.

The most interesting looks, however, were a set of long ruffled garments that looked like wild west Victoriana by way of the 1970s. This was Jill Stuart at her most fashion forward, hitting all the right notes.

A photo posted by JILL STUART (@jillstuart) on

 

Hanley

Endlessly traveling the world, Nicole Hanley’s latest collection was inspired by a recent trip behind the scenes at the Prado Museum in Madrid.

The presentation during New York Fashion Week featured the models posed on pedestals like priceless artwork behind giant gilded frames For the Hanley customer, a wardrobe that translates seamlessly from winter in New York to an outdoor restaurant on the Riviera is an absolute must, and that seasonless quality shaped Hanley’s offerings.

A lightweight dress hits just high enough above the knee to work for a caribbean vacation, but paired with tall boots as it was in Hanley’s presentation, seems just right for a night out come winter in some faraway European capital.

A photo posted by HANLEY (@hanleynyc) on

Hood By Air

While new ideas at fashion week are generally limited to new ways to cut a dress or wear a hairstyle, some designers go above and beyond with their concepts, skirting the line between art and apparel. Shayne Olivier at Hood By Air showed he is one of those designers as he presented a follow up to his men’s couture show in January.

Imbued with political subtexts, his clothes were aggressively androgynous and undoubtably avant garde. Styled with airport accoutrements like baggage tags, luggage straps, and a roll of bright red shrink-wrap, there was a definite undercurrent of movement, with critics drawing a comparison to the ongoing refugee crisis in Europe, where Oliver is finding more and more success.

Several looks were anchored with bulky Wellington boots, ready for all weather, and puffer jackets, while in another a model lifted a full-length puffer jacket over his head as if he an athlete hoisting his country’s flag after a winning goal.

ApparelMagic clients shine at New York Fashion Week

by Ian Laughead

Thom Browne

Set in New York City between the wars, Thom Browne’s fall show was a veritable piece of theatre. Models slowly wandered down pathways in a set built up as a city park surrounded by canvas-fronted rowhouses.

A photo posted by Thom Browne (@thombrowneny) on

Moving from the deconstruction of his men’s collection for fall, Browne turned to reconstruction. Coats were sewn together to look as if they are falling off one another, and shirts and jackets were hybridized into single, asymmetrical pieces. The finale wedding dress combined a tea-length dress with a half dozen pieces of sheer outerwear trailing behind.

Much like his recent men’s show, Browne used a variety of dog motifs, from opening the show with a male model walking a mechanical toy version, to a gossamer duster jacket with the canines woven into the jacquard.

Collaborating with milliner Stephen Jones, windblown ties on each model turned into inventive fascinators.
Zero + Maria Cornejo

Maria Cornejo’s latest collection was as jet-set as they come, but with none of the glossy overtness other designers propose.

A photo posted by PR Consulting (@prconsulting) on

Seamlessly assembling a set of international inspirations, Cornejo put outerwear down the runway in the form of belted blankets, leather kimono vests, and pieced-cowhide ponchos.

Well-traveled prints of unclear provenance and layers both cozy and diaphanous filled the collection, and for each furry cape there was an equally exciting–and equally wearable–silky caftan to go with it.

The event, shown back-to-front with the finale at the beginning and the individual looks shown after, could feel like a shock value tactic in less able hands, but with Cornejo’s subtle design sensibilities, it served more to instill the spirit of the collection from the outset.

Thom Browne shows in Paris

Closing Paris Men’s Fashion Week for the fall/winter 2016 season were Thom Browne and Hood By Air, both ApparelMagic clients. These two avant-garde labels chose very different routes for their events: Browne, an unstoppable showman, staged a spectacle in a giant event space, while Shayne Oliver showed his Hood By Air collection to an intimate group, reportedly blocking even cell phone snapshots from being taken.

If one can expect anything from a Hood By Air collection, it’s that everything will be an experiment. The time slot was positioned so close to the following Haute Couture shows that even Vogue is calling Oliver’s effort couture. The garments actually on the runway are somehow at once fit for both an underground hip-hop music video and a esoteric museum exhibit. Androgynous in the extreme, the looks were shown were voluminous streetwear staples atop stiletto-heeled boots, some in patent leather. Puffer jacket hybrids topped fishnets, a snorkel-hooded jacket had its own train, and one look paired baggy trousers with a bright yellow pleated skirt. With all these ideas, Oliver was able to flex his design muscles in Paris. For the upcoming New York Fashion week, however, he’ll have a new Hood By Air collection. One that has that same HBA cool factor with a more wearable point of view.

A photo posted by Thom Browne (@thombrowneny) on


Thom Browne, a multiple-time CFDA winner, took a characteristically theatrical take on traditional dressing that enthralled audiences as they took to Instagram posting shots of a chandelier-dominated theatre-in-the-round. Browne’s models were grouped in sets of three, each in matching suiting and outerwear, but each in a difference stage of decay: from moth eaten and destroyed to brand new and immaculate.

With almost Magritte-esque bowler hats strapped to their faces, the models slowly orbited the room, some toting furry bags in the shape of small dogs. Amongst the pieces in the literally rags-to-riches collection, there were suits fully quilted in the shape of chevrons, furs pieced into complicated plaid patterns, and a final look that included a cape fully embroidered in pearls.

ApparelMagic clients gain critical acclaim at New York Fashion Week

As fashion week continues on from New York to Europe, we take a moment to look at ApparelMagic clients’ hard-won victories during spring 2016’s edition of New York Fashion Week.

Hood By Air

It’s not often that a designer like Shayne Oliver, creative director of ApparelMagic client Hood By Air, can give his subversive take on both Jennifer Aniston’s hair and Kim Kardashian’s makeup and still end up impressing his audience with capital-F fashion, but as usual, Oliver’s done it again. The hair, based on the zig-zag center part of Aniston’s “Friends” character, and the makeup, a reference to the Kardashian clan by way of unblended, half-done conturing makeup, make up only the headline to the collection’s deconstructed assemblage of cutaway jeans, floor length dress shirts, and cropped takes on uniform dressing.

Never a stranger to outsize runway statements, Oliver emblazoned his HBA logo across school blazers and even tied several models’ arms behind their backs. The experimental shapes and angles he threw at the clothing bridge any divide that might be left today between streetwear and haute couture, and the clothes themselves are nearly androgynous, being showcased equally well on both men and women. Hood By Air might be a young brand, but its appeal–and its influence–are growing faster than ever.

Badgley Mischka

Held in this season’s favorite Fashion Week venue, Skylight at Moynihan Station, Mark Badgley and James Mischka showed their spring collection for ApparelMagic client Badgley Mischka infused with a new, airy elegance. The first look out was a buttery yellow jacket in a chunky tweed, paired with matching kicky shorts – a business suit for a Hamptons lawn rather than a stuffy board meeting.

In the audience, the designers’ famous friends including Dame Helen Mirren watched as embellished, pale looks filed past, each garment flowing or glinting with sparkle. Badgley Mischka played to their consistent strengths: feminine, easy daywear and goddess-style gowns with just the right amount of drama. The gowns, toward the end of the défilé, ranged from lingerie-inspired draperies in rose pink to dresses with slits-up-to-there in the best taste of 40’s Hollywood glamour. These are clothes that are never too fussy, but instead timelessly classic and flattering.

Jill Stuart

Jill Stuart’s spring collection felt like a love letter to the 1970’s, celebrating and exaggerating the decade’s most iconic–and somehow incredibly relevant–looks. There were some updated peasant tops with high necks and blousey sleeves here and some sleek statement flares there. The front row was full of A list celebrities like Solange Knowles, who would be stunning in Stuart’s pale pink ruffled crop tops, and teenage sensation Bella Thorne, who could step right onto the red carpet in one of the collection’s creamy satin one-shoulder cocktail dresses.

It wasn’t an unconsidered blast from the past though, as each time Stuart plucked a trend from the seventies, she masterfully remixed it into something that looked poised to step down to the dance floor at some 2015 downtown version of New York’s famed Studio 54. Caftans, for instance, aren’t used as an exotic reference as they pass through Stuart’s hands, ending up on the runway in black spangled in stars over a blush-toned trouser. Indeed, the entire collection felt perfectly at home in both 1977 and 2015.

Thom Browne

Another season, another outrageous spectacle from New York’s resident king of theatrics. This time around, the audience sat in a theater-in-the-round formation around a raw, timber-framed schoolhouse complete with desks. If that’s too simple there, Browne added disco floor lighting to the ceiling, and hung a few bushes and a picket fence around the perimeter, all upside down. Instead of turning fashion on its head, he rotated the whole world around it.

The clothes themselves are typical Browne inventiveness, all with origins in his trademark grey suit, but twisted in nearly unrecognizable ways. Models slowly strutted around the schoolhouse in pastel layers of topcoats, skirts, and shirts, each layered so that the shirt hem hung far below the bottom of skirt, in some cases all the way to the ankles. Each topcoat and jacket was painstakingly pieced together with Japanese-inspired motifs, some with bonsai crawling up the sleeves and another with a pastel geisha appliqué going from jacket lapel to skirt hem. This collection was one more hit in Thom Browne’s growing line of unforgettable shows.

Hanley

Though based in New York, ApparelMagic client Hanley is a brand of a thousand destinations, each one more nuanced and glamorous than the last. Nicole Hanley’s jetsetting inspiration this season took her collection to the city of Havana, Cuba. Materializing in a bright, diverse mix of separates, the line seems like it was brought home from her travels by an impossibly tasteful student during her gap year, and meticulously styled to this season’s sense of effortless perfection.

Rich mustard tones are paired with crisp poplin in some looks, and others include shorts or a vest in a luxuriously textured stripe inspired by Hanley’s travel to Cuba. Each look of the collection sits well with the others, but it will look even better on its own when a street style star inevitably snaps up one of the pieces–especially that suede pullover primed and ready to travel anywhere in the world and wherever Hanley takes it next.

Zero + Maria Cornejo

Maria Cornejo is a New York Fashion Week stalwart. Season in and season out, her line, Zero + Maria Cornejo, is always there, preaching its signature brand of conceptual minimalism. The clothes always hit those perfect balances between daydreamy beauty and urban utility, between flattering and interesting. This spring, she proposes oversized, draped volumes that wrap around the body softly and generously in her ever present neutrals. While in a few garments she takes on a bright, painterly print in yellow and blue, even that is set against serene monochromatic greys.

The rest of the collection sticks to a mostly black-and-white palette, each color keeping to itself in most cases until the last looks down the runway, when Cornejo’s fabric research skills really shine through a couple of dresses each with lasercut grids of black or white, sections rustling and peeling back as models moved through the space. Fashion week might be the busiest nine days on the calendar, but this ApparelMagic client is always there to slow time down with her ethereal creations.

ApparelMagic client Hood By Air wins CFDA Award

An ApparelMagic client took home an awards at the 2015 CFDA Fashion Awards presented in New York City at Alice Tully Hall, Lincoln Center.

Hood By Air’s creative director, Shane Oliver, received the Swarovski Award for Menswear. The brand’s signature mix of high fashion and streetwear continues to be a critical hit among the fashion press. The clothing has been featured in everything from the pages to vogue to the rails of influential retailer Dover Street Market.

For over 30 years, ApparelMagic, the leading apparel management software, has been at the forefront of technology and the cutting edge of fashion in the industry, helping businesses manage styles, customers, sales, inventory and accounting.

ApparelMagic Cloud gives its users the power of a fully integrated PLM/ERP/CRM system with optional accounting and manufacturing with the convenience and ease of a browser based solution. Accessible from Windows, Mac, iPad and Android, ApparelMagic Cloud is the future of apparel management.

KELTEK selects ApparelMagic as its ERP solution

KELTEK Safety Apparel, a division of Kelsey Sportswear Ltd. chose ApparelMagic as its full ERP system. KELTEK has been an ApparelMagic client since 2005 and recently upgraded to the latest version of the system.

The Canadian company operates two manufacturing facilities and a distribution center, shipping garments all across North America.

“It has become key for us to follow production from raw to finished goods,” COO Ian McDonald said. “Order driven forecasting for production has been a huge help.”

KELTEK Safety Apparel relies on its high level manufacturing facilities to be able to respond to its clients’  varied needs for specialty or customized garments promptly and to ensure that no compromises are made during the development, design and production. KELTEK uses only the highest quality CGSB FR compliant components available, such as Indura® and Indura Ultrasoft® from Westex™Inc., Dupont’s™ Nomex IIIA®, zippers from YKK™ and reflective trim from 3M™.

Manufacturing safety wear to meet the highest quality control standards, requires tracking manufacturing properly from start to finish. That’s why KELTEK chose ApparelMagic.  And KELTEK appreciates the high level of customer care that they have received as they upgraded.

“It has been fantastic working with support,” McDonald said.

McDonald explained he had worked with other systems that simply couldn’t meet their needs.

“In particular, other systems couldn’t handle our manufacturing components,” McDonald said.

McDonald concluded that he appreciates the support and great user experience.

About KELTEK
KELTEK and Kelsey Sportswear are known for top garment quality, comfort and durability.  Founded in 1968, KELTEK and Kelsey have gained a worldwide reputation for garments of quality, comfort and durability. Kelsey Sportswear has offered quality outdoor apparel and safety wear for over 40 years and now proudly features a full line of safety apparel for Industry. E xperience, research and product testing make for fine garments that meet or exceed current industry standards. keltek.ca

About ApparelMagic
Since 1984, ApparelMagic has provided powerful business solutions to apparel companies around the globe. With clients on 5 continents and over a quarter century of experience, ApparelMagic is the industry’s first choice in delivering state-of-the-art software, training and support. apparelmagic.com

ApparelMagic streamlines Mustard Pie’s ordering

Mustard Pie Clothing, the popular baby and young girls’ clothing manufacturer, selected ApparelMagic for its transparency and ease of use.

“ApparelMagic has created solid transparency for the whole company,” Scott Rihm said in a February 2014 interview. “From our factory in India to New York to Chicago, anyone is able to pull up a ticket, an invoice, etc. and see it instantly.”

Rihm touted ApparelMagic’s ease of use as a primary factor in their decision. “It has made life much easier,” Rihm said. “What was formerly a 30-day process of faxing and excel spreadsheets,” is now eliminated.

About Mustard Pie Clothing
Mustard Pie, baby and girls’ clothing, seeks to make children feel unique and one of a kind. The designer’s hope is to help children express their creative imaginations through what they choose to wear. Mustard Pie Clothing was created in 2008 in the interest of every daydreamer, twirling princess and butterfly catcher wandering the earth. Available in over 500 stores, Mustard Pie’s soft cottons and kaleidoscope of colors are sure to delight. mustardpieclothing.com

About ApparelMagic
Since 1984, ApparelMagic has provided powerful business solutions to apparel companies around the globe. With clients on 5 continents and over a quarter century of experience, ApparelMagic is the industry’s first choice in delivering state-of-the-art software, training and support. apparelmagic.com

Industrial Revolution II selects ApparelMagic to support Haiti revitalization

Innovative manufacturing company, Industrial Revolution II (IRII) is taking crucial steps in Haiti’s revitalization with the introduction of high-end manufacturing. The project creates direct employment for low-income Haitians and heightens the skill level of Haitian apparel workers.

IRII’s Founding Partners include Joelle Berdugo Adler (of Diesel Canada Inc), Richard Coles (of Multiwear SA), Rob Broggi (formerly with Tudor Investment Corp.) and Matt Damon (actor and philanthropist). Its local management includes Lenz Balan, CFO, and Kristen Reinhardt, overseeing US Operations. These important industry leaders are promoting Haitian economy regeneration with selective apparel enterprises.

IRII plans to include flexible manufacturing and digital printing, allowing IRII to produce a wide range of knit garments at competitive prices, and 50% of the profits will continuously fund programs for employees, their families and the local community (irii.com).

IRII has selected ApparelMagic as a key tool in its mission to prompt social advancement and offer high quality products and services.

ApparelMagic provides the premier ERP solution to apparel importers, distributors, and manufacturers. Industry leaders everywhere rely on ApparelMagic daily, helping them integrate web marketing, sales, purchasing and production, inventory, and accounting.

Jill Stuart, Badgley Mischka get logistics boost from ApparelMagic & Statco

Jill Stuart and Badgley Mischka recently launched their Spring 2014 collections at the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week at Lincoln Center. They have distinguished themselves for their stunning fashions and trend setting designs. Running a fashion business requires more than great designs, it also requires the right partners for managing your information and logistics. Badgley Mischka and Jill Stuart use ApparelMagic ERP and Statco Warehousing and Logistics to ensure that their businesses run properly.

A post shared by JILL STUART (@jillstuart) on

ApparelMagic and Statco have recently completed an exciting integration between their two services to ensure that user experience is easier than ever. ApparelMagic developers worked with Statco’s Jose Merino to complete the integration.

“Providing a link between ApparelMagic and Statco will allow our customers to easily and efficiently exchange information, allowing orders to be processed faster than ever before. I’m excited to see our clients use the new integration as a core component of their business,” according to John Murphy of ApparelMagic.

About ApparelMagic: Since 1984, ApparelMagic has provided powerful business solutions to apparel companies around the globe. With clients on 5 continents and over a quarter century of experience, ApparelMagic is the industry’s first choice in delivering state-of-the-art software, training and support.

About Statco: Statco Inc. operates a warehouse facility with over 600,000 square feet of Pick and Pack space and services major and minor manufacturers of soft and hard goods. Statco Warehouse comes fully equipped with a customized order processing system along with proficient EDI administrators to accommodate your warehouse needs. Full automation is possible through a custom order processing application and facilities have multiple scanning stations to ensure accuracy. Wireless picking is incorporated directly into packing. A Special Services department offers garment ticketing, garment hanging, odor removal, steaming, cleaning, pressing and mending. Web Access allows customers to track orders, verify inventory status and display inventory history.

About Jill Stuart: Jill Stuart has become a fashion best-seller with over 500 freestanding stores around the world. Jill Stuart sold her first collection to Bloomingdales at the age of 15 and the Jill Stuart Collection began in 1993. Jill Stuart designs have had booming international appeal since, with enthusiasts such as Angelina Jolie, Madonna, Jennifer Aniston, Anne Hathaway, Scarlett Johansson and Megan Fox.

About Badgley Mischka: Badgley Mischka graces the covers of magazines like Vogue and Women’s Wear Daily. Vogue has named the duo one of “The Top 10 American Designers.” Favorites of Hollywood stylists and fashion icons alike, their designs are always the highlight of the red carpet and continue to inspire trends. Badgley Mischka has become instrumental in the fashion of Hollywood and society, dressing Halle Berry, Jennifer Garner, and presidential daughters Jenna and Barbara Bush, among others. Most recently, Helen Mirren and Queen Latifah chose Badgley Mischka at this year’s Oscars. Katrina Bowden, Anna Chlumsky and Jane Lynch wore Badgley at the Emmys.

Elevee finds ApparelMagic “tailor-made”

Élevée, a luxury brand that has been creating custom hand tailored wardrobes for high profile executives, professional athletes, and celebrity elite, for more than a decade, has relied on ApparelMagic ERP to manage its very successful line since 2002. Élevée is able to create unique samples with every order to satisfy the needs of professional athletes such as Aaron Rodgers and Kevin Durant.

“ApparelMagic has always made it possible to run our business efficiently by being the most user-friendly,” COO David Paletz said in a November 2013 interview. “ApparelMagic is always there to make sure things happens in a quick way and the support, the customer service and the follow-through are fantastic.”

“Élevée researched and compared all of the systems out there at the time”, COO David Paletz said. “What we found with ApparelMagic is that they offered the most flexible system available for companies that wanted to do custom work to fit their business model. ApparelMagic has streamlined our entire process and enhanced screens have cut our order time in more than half.”

And according to CEO Michael O’Brien, “ApparelMagic is a great product, with unparalleled flexibility. But it’s their customer service that really sells them. As our business has grown, the ApparelMagic team has been there every step of the way. We have increased productivity ten-fold and have experienced a tremendous cost savings.”

ABOUT ELEVEE: Élevée has been featured on the covers of Sports Illustrated, GQ, People and ESPN The Magazine, among others. Élevée is worn by high-profile executives, professional athletes and celebrities, characterizing its image as one of confidence and originality. Elevee is a completely vertical company that manufactures, designs, and styles in the U.S.A. Elevee’s hand tailored, custom wardrobes are designed exclusively to fit each client’s lifestyle from causal to formal. Elevee infuses the expertise of their design team, the craftsmanship of their Master Tailors and the finest fabrics in the world with your personal style and comfort level in mind. www.elevee.com

ABOUT APPARELMAGIC: For 29 years, ApparelMagic has been on the forefront of technology in the fashion industry, helping businesses manage sales, manufacturing, allocation, accounting, and more. From the top multi-national brands to niche labels, ApparelMagic is used throughout the industry to keep businesses effective and competitive, delivering state-of-the-art software, training and support.

Pure Karma uses ApparelMagic for its ease and flexibility

When Apparel Magazine‘s Jessica Binns interviewed Scott Kallman of Pure Karma, a Los Angeles-based active lifestyle clothing firm, Kallman extolled the virtues of ApparelMagic’s user-friendly system.

“Kallman has been involved with six software implementations at companies ranging in size from $135-million enterprises to his current start-up based in Los Angeles, Pure Karma. He says that integrating ApparelMagic’s solution was the easiest process by far. What’s more, he says, it gives Kallman a competitive advantage as an employer. ‘What I can do is offer unique things like working from home if you’re a parent and need to be with your children,’ he explains. ‘People are able to input their own information into the system — they can drive their own relationship management. I want those sales reps to have access to all of that data — when you input the information yourself, you’re recognizing business opportunities.’